As the main street style photographer for GQ.com and Style.com, not to mention his own blog, Jak and Jil, Tommy Ton doesn’t just document the scene surrounding the menswear shows in Europe and New York—he helps define it. His unerring eye for color and the details that differentiate have turned a generation of guys on to the power of the finer points, and caused those who attend the men’s collections to elevate their sartorial game in the process. So how does the man behind the camera assemble his own signature look? Read on to find out.

How would you describe your own style? 
The best word to describe my style is “schizophrenic.” It’s all really dependent on my mood, and I do like to jump between a preppy minimal look or something more layered and rugged.

Whose style inspires you most?  (Bonus points for not saying Steve McQueen, Paul Newman or Connery-era 007.)  
I'm actually really obsessed with [YSL designer] Stefano Pilati. If there is anyone I wish I could photograph more, it would be Stefano. He has such a refined sense of elegance. He wears the oversized cocoon-shape coat better than anyone else, and it's never too much with him when it comes to color, print or embellishment. 

How do you dress differently than you did five years ago?  
When I first started, I was really into the whole Nu Rave moment happening in London, so I was wearing really animated looks from Jeremy Scott and Jean Charles Castelbajac. After that I went into an all-black Rick Owens phase. But now more than anything it's more about comfort and less about wearing statement items. I do fall victim to the obvious statement designer piece here and there but I'd say my style now is more basic. I think once you find a designer who you can relate to, it's much easier to buy what suits you.  

We all make the occasional wardrobe mistake. Any you’d care to admit to?  
I probably have a habit of making one or two a week at least, which is probably why no one ever takes my photo. I'm guilty of committing the same crime over and over again—not understanding what fits me well. I probably wear some trousers that are too tight for me or I'll wear a jacket that's too boxy on me. But I do learn from my mistakes, and playing around with different shapes and silhouettes is the only way you’ll understand what works best on you.

When you’re putting together an outfit, what do you build around? (I.e., the shirt? Tie? Socks?)?
It probably revolves around a pair of pants. I've had this problem with buying more pants than I can wear, but I really like to invest in a great trouser. Based on the fit of the pant, I determine what shape works best on top. I try to make it appear less calculated.   

Describe your go-to travel outfit.
A sweatshirt, my Dries Van Noten knee-patch pants, New Balance 574 sneakers, and a backpack. It's fairly simple because being comfortable is all that matters for me. 

What are you reading, watching, and/or listening to at the moment?  
Sadly I don't ever have time to read anymore, but I do however make time to watch Rupaul's Drag Race, I shamelessly admit that it's the one series I look forward to every year. In terms of music, I'm still stuck in the eighties and listen a lot to Depeche Mode. I really love the film scores that Cliff Martinez did for Drive and Contagion. Other than that I listen to everything from Kanye West, James Blake, Florence and the Machine and I'm a sucker for late 90s/early 2000s R&B and Hip-hop.

You’ve just bought a classic navy pinstripe suit. What instructions do you give your tailor?
Well, I'm not much of a suit person, but I'd definitely try my best to have it altered to suit my shorter body type. First I would narrow the sleeves and hem the sleeves and pant legs. I'd probably take it in a bit in the waist for more of a shrunken fit, but not as extreme as a Thom Browne silhouette.  

Is there one thing you can pull off that most people can’t? How about vice versa?
I think shorter jackets suit me well, so a bomber or varsity style jacket is more flattering to my body shape and as well as a higher-waisted pant with tapered legs. I wish I could pull off wide legged trousers or even a floor length coat but I'm way too short.